A patient asked me this recently, and I completely understood why they were asking:
"If we're all wearing more sunscreen than ever, why does it seem like skin cancer is becoming more common?"
It's a valid question. At first glance, it feels contradictory. And if you've spent any time on social media, you've probably seen people using this as "evidence" that sunscreen doesn't work - or even claiming it's somehow contributing to the problem. And I understand why that creates confusion.
But the reality is far more nuanced than a headline or viral post suggests. So let's unpack it together, without fearmongering, without bias, and with the evidence we have today
The short version is this: two things rising at the same time doesn't mean one is causing the other. It's one of the most common traps in how we read health information, and sunscreen is a textbook example. Let me explain why the numbers look the way they do.
Correlation is not cause and why that matters here
When we see two things increasing at the same time, it's easy to assume one must be causing the other. But it rarely works that way.
Both sunscreen use and skin cancer rates have been shaped by many other changes over the past few decades. Our sun exposure habits, life expectancy, travel, awareness, and screening have all changed significantly.
So, to conclude that sunscreen isn't working - or is somehow causing harm - you'd have to overlook all of those factors. And that's simply not how we interpret evidence or understand cause and effect in medicine.
Take a step back and look at how much has changed over the past few decades.
We travel to sunny destinations far more frequently than previous generations. For many years, sunbeds were widely used before we fully understood the risks they carried. We're also living longer, and because skin cancer develops as the result of cumulative UV damage over a lifetime, an ageing population naturally means more cases.
On top of that, we're much better at recognising skin cancer than we used to be. Public awareness has improved, people are checking their skin more often, and clinicians are diagnosing lesions earlier than ever before. All of these factors contribute to the rise in reported cases.
Better detection changes the picture
This is a piece people often miss. When awareness rises and screening improves, more cases get found - including small, early ones that in decades past might never have been noticed or recorded. That looks like an increase in disease, but part of what we're seeing is simply an increase in detection. It's the same phenomenon we see with several other cancers as diagnostic tools improve.
None of this means the rise isn't real or doesn't matter. It does. But it means the raw headline figure is measuring several things at once, not delivering a clean verdict on whether your factor 50 is doing its job.
So does sunscreen actually work?
The most useful evidence doesn't come from watching population trends and guessing. It comes from studies that compare people who use sunscreen properly against those who don't. And the picture from that kind of research is reassuring: regular, correct sunscreen use is associated with fewer of the sun-related skin changes we worry about, including certain skin cancers, alongside less photoageing - the sun-driven wrinkling, roughness and pigmentation that many people come to see me about.
There's also a straightforward biological logic here. Ultraviolet radiation damages the DNA in skin cells. Utraviolet (UV) radiation is also classified as a Group 1 carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer, which is part of the World Health Organization. A Group 1 carcinogen means there is sufficient evidence that it causes cancer in humans. This is the highest level of carcinogenic classification. It includes hazards such as UV radiation from the sun, UV-emitting tanning devices (sunbeds), tobacco smoke and asbestos. It simply means the evidence that it can cause cancer is conclusive.
The actual risk depends on the type, intensity, and duration of exposure.That damage, accumulated over years, is one of the main drivers of skin cancer and visible ageing. Sunscreen reduces the amount of UV reaching the skin. Reducing a known cause of damage is a sensible, evidence-supported thing to do.
Sunscreen isn't a magic shield. It's one tool among several - and it works best when we stop asking it to do everything on its own.
Where the gap really lies
This is where the conversation needs a little more nuance.
The way sunscreen is tested in clinical studies is very different from the way most of us use it in real life - and that difference matters.
In research, sunscreen is applied generously, evenly, and exactly as instructed. In everyday life, that's rarely what happens.
- Most people apply far less than the amount needed to achieve the SPF on the bottle, which can significantly reduce the level of protection.
- Commonly missed areas include the ears, hairline, back of the neck and tops of the feet.
- It often isn't reapplied after swimming, sweating or towel-drying, or during a long day outdoors.
There's also a behavioural effect. Sometimes, wearing sunscreen gives us the confidence to stay in intense midday sun for much longer than we otherwise would. If UV exposure increases enough, it can offset some of the benefit sunscreen provides.
So when people say, "Sunscreen doesn't work," the reality is usually more complicated. Sunscreen that is applied too thinly, missed in key areas, not reapplied, and used as a reason to prolong sun exposure won't perform as well as it was designed to.
That's not a failure of sunscreen itself. It's the difference between how it's intended to be used and how it's often used in everyday life.
Protection is a layered thing, not a single product
I find it helps patients to stop thinking of sunscreen as a standalone solution and start thinking of sun protection as a set of habits that work together. Sunscreen is genuinely valuable, but it sits alongside other simple measures.
- Seeking shade during the strongest hours of the day, particularly in summer or on holiday.
- Wearing a wide-brimmed hat and sunglasses, and covering up with clothing when it's practical.
- Using a broad-spectrum sunscreen generously on exposed skin, and topping it up through the day.
- Avoiding sunbeds entirely - there's no such thing as a healthy tan.
- Getting to know your own skin so you notice changes early.
That last point deserves emphasis. Learning what your moles and marks normally look like means you're far more likely to spot something that's new, changing, or behaving differently. A spot that grows, changes colour or shape, bleeds, itches or simply doesn't heal is worth having checked. Most of the time these things turn out to be harmless - but that reassurance is worth getting from a professional rather than from your own worry at 2am.
A word on balance and fear
I want to be even-handed here, because health anxiety helps no one. Sun isn't the enemy, and the goal isn't to hide indoors. Sensible daylight exposure is part of normal life. Equally, not every freckle or age spot is sinister, and not every change needs treating.
The goal is simply to reduce unnecessary UV damage over a lifetime through small, sustainable habits. Seek shade when the sun is strongest, wear protective clothing where appropriate, and use sunscreen as one part of that broader approach. It's about being informed, not fearful.
What I would be cautious of are the increasingly confident claims online that sunscreen is ineffective or somehow harmful. These arguments often rely on oversimplified comparisons, selective evidence, or a misunderstanding of how scientific research is interpreted. Health is rarely black and white, and when something sounds remarkably simple or deliberately provocative, it's usually worth looking a little deeper before accepting it as fact.
If you'd like a considered opinion
At Nūra, every consultation starts with a conversation, not a treatment plan.
Before we discuss skincare or procedures, I want to understand your skin, your medical history, your lifestyle, and any concerns or questions you have. Whether you're worried about a changing mole, unsure which sunscreen is right for you, or simply trying to make sense of the conflicting advice you've seen online, my role is to help you navigate it with clear, evidence-based guidance.
Sometimes that reassurance is all that's needed. Sometimes I'll recommend changes to your skincare or sun protection. And if something needs further investigation or a specialist opinion, I'll tell you that too.
Looking after your skin shouldn't feel overwhelming. It should feel informed, personalised, and built on trust.